How To Get Started Building Your Gas Fire Pit

What Dancingfire.com does is supply you with you our OPINIONS and all the components to complete your fire pit. The actual construction and pit construction engineering is between you and the contractor. I do the gas parts. Like I tell all my clients, FIrst lets figure out what's needed in the infrastructure like gas pipe and how large. Then build the physical fire pit. When it's built I can make everything you need to drop in the pit. My stuff is custom made to fit YOUR fire pit.

First decide on how you want to light the fire pit. Three options for starters.

* Match lit kit.

Turn on the gas valve and light the gas with a lighter.

PRO'S .
Cheapest unit to install
I infinite control over flame adjustment within the perimeters of the gas valve installed.
you can crank it up or small chilled fire.
If you don't like the size of the burner it's cheap and easy to replace.
This is the only system that offers easy change out.
No Moving parts. Shouldn't be anything to go wrong.

CON's
If the wind blows the flame out the gas is still on.
This is a big issue but a do able issue. Just have to pay attention. And if the burner is installed correctly this shouldn't happen very often. If it happens we simply lower the burner pan.

* Thermo Coupler Devise

Works just like a hot water heater. More expensive then match lit

PRO's
IF the wind blows the fire out it turns off the gas.

CON'S
There is limited flame adjustment. There is variable flame but not like the match lit.The output is only 140K BTU'S with a high out put key valve.

You have to mount a Stainless control box on the outside of the fire pit.

*Hot Wire Electronic Ignition

This is the most high tech with remote control options.

PRO'S
Pretty cool unit. This is the best automated unit on the market hands down. Top notch manufacture that takes a lot pride in quality control and there work but a little slow to get repairs returned.

If the wind blows the fire out it automatically relights. This is by far the safest unit with GSA certification. Used a lot in commercial applications like hotels and restaurants.

Quite flexible in design applications and installation applications

If this unit is purchased with Dancing Fire's "EXPANDA PAN" servicing unit is made a lot more accessible saving labor $$.

CON'S
Expensive at over $2 grand and more depending on the unit.

The Pit must stay covered when not in use. If the controller is returned for warranty and it has water in it the warranty is voided. Could cost $400 and 3 three weeks down time. This is a factory only repair valve box. If it needs repaired it goes back to factory.

That is the most important starting places. With this you can calculate what sub-grade utilities you need. At the bare minimum. But I will say IMHO if your are running a gas line to wear ever from where ever run at least underground 12-2 with a ground copper wire. It's cheap wire and it's a lot easier putting wire in a trench that's already dug then it's to say "Oh damn, I wish we had a plug out here". Trust me on this one.

With that said. run 3/4" gas pipe from source to the pit (double check this with plumber). set gas stubbed to the pit about 3" from the inside of the fire pit wall. Do put the stubbed line in the center of the pit. Same with electric. You want the gas plumbing to be capped off with a nipple sticking about 12" off the floor.

At this point you going to want to visit this page "Installing the Gas Shutoff Valve"and get an idea of how your gong to install the gas valve. This valve is a key valve just like you have seen inside homes as fireplace gas log lighters but these are different. THis is BIG. Let me repeat this. This is BIG. If someone such as your self or a plumber goes to home depot and buying a fireplace log lighter keyed gas valve and you install it your going to get pissed because by the time you figure this out the fix is to take everything apart and and re plumb the pit with a high out put valve and you can't get these just anywhere. Visit our store front on we are adding these as we speak.

We have several other pages on our FYI page that deals with sizes. Figure out what size fire pit you want and one that works with your yard. Draw this up and if your in a location where you need an inspection take this drawing to the inspector and get a preliminary ok. Your really wanting to know at this point is how far does the fire pit need to be away from any existing structures, is the city and county cool,do you need a safety screen, do you need a permit, and so on. Every municipality is different so find about your restrictions and then build your fire pit within these constraints, which shouldn't be an issue,

Read my pages on building a gas fire pit. Then if your doing this yourself you can get an idea of what you need to run where i.e. gas, electric. If your hiring this out by reading these pages you will get a better idea of what everyone is talking about. Your more educated.

My theory is if your going to run a gas line you should go ahead and run some electric. Put a 120 vac plug on the side of the fire pit. Even if you don't put in a plug if you run the wire it will be there if and when you do decide you want a plug. It;s cheap so why not because if some day you want a plug- it'll happen.





My Name is Jim Jarvis and I am the manager of Dancing Fire inc. and I am also the designer, engineer of the gas fire pits we build. Gas fire pits and gas fire features have become somewhat our specialty. My cell phone is 817.946.6463. We are very service oriented and I can be reached most anytime so if you have any questions please call, TEXT or email me, I am good about returning calls in the event you get voice mail.

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